chiang khan, loei province

Mekong Boardwalk

The Mekong River has always had an air of mystique for me. I remember gazing across to Laos in 1982 from the Thai side. Not a thing stirred, not even a boat on the river, or a riverbank animal, or bird for that matter. It could have been that this was just seven years after the Pathet Lao had seized control in Laos, and you would be shot dead for attempting to cross the river. Pictured here, the Mekong from the boardwalk at Chiang Khan. Tempora mutantur, times change and things move on, fortunately. The evening night market also makes for a top destination.

Non Han Kumphawapi, udon thani

Red Lotus Lake

Not far into the long drive back from Nong Khai, a sign said ‘Red Lotus Lake, 12 kms this way’. Do we detour or just crack on with the journey? I mean, there’s hours and hours still to go. Not having heard of the lake it was 50:50. Luckily, it was a case of ‘we are here and not likely to be here again any time soon, so…’ The lotuses are lilies as it happens and there is a veritable sea of pink as your slow boat chugs away through the channels. Money well spent indeed as the morning sunlight flits across the water. Later in the day the lilies close for a snooze as do the boatmen, hopefully with a 500 baht note tucked safely into their pockets.

phu thok, loei province

Above the clouds

Just outside Chiang Khan is a conical hill which is a ideal for looking down on a blanket of clouds if conditions are right. You park at the base pre-dawn before being whisked to the top on a speedy baht bus in the cold morning air (kind of helter-skelter in reverse as it swings round the bends). The guy in the carpark said I wouldn't need a jacket, but it was teeth-chatteringly chilly up there; everyone else seemed not to have asked his advice! However, it was a good sunrise despite there not being an over-abundance of clouds on that Christmas Eve morning. Back at base there were multiple outlets serving up hot breakfast. They know how to spot an opportunity! But do they ever sell those t-shirts? Ever?

Hellfire Pass, Kanchanaburi

ANZAC Dawn Service

The ANZAC Day dawn service is held on 25th April each year at Hellfire Pass. It was very well attended, with many tour groups from Australia making the trip. The Interpretive Centre there is professionally curated, being funded by the Australian and NZ governments. The location of the service is held at a Konyu Cutting, further down the track. They said be there ready for the 5 am start, but we could hear movement from outside our tent (glamping) at 3 am as people headed out of the resort. Joining in, it made for a very long day; solemn to be sure, but one that has probably been on the list for the attendees for a considerable time.

Phu Kradeung, loei province

Phu Kradeung National Park

Phu Kradeung is a plateau in Loei Province. It is a tough climb, no two ways about it. Expect 4-5 hours strain on your knees going up, even worse on the way down but on your toes. You can pay porters 30 baht/kilo to take excess stuff. Just as well! Once up there the hired camping gear and bikes take care of the trips: sunrise at dawn, cliffs, overhanging ledges. An exhausting although exhilarating trip which will leave your legs like jelly for the rest of the week.

phanom rung, buriram province

Khmer way-point

The complex at Phanom Rung is quite remote and stands on a hill in the middle of a flat plain. It is contemporaneous with Angkor Wat and was part of the Khmer Kingdom at the time, seemingly a way-point between Angkor Wat and Phimai. Perhaps it is the building stone or the fact that the renovation was more recent, but the state of presevation at the site is impressive. Of note: the sun shines directly through a line of E-W portals at sunrise, twice per year. Pictured here, a group of monks setting off towards the site along the processional walkway, having first posed for the obligatory group photo.

fLOWER FESTIVAL, cHIANG mAI

On parade

What an absolutely stunning spectacle the Saturday morning parade in February is. It stretches so far back, alongside the moats and city walls that inevitable gaps appear between the floats or marchers. They also stop for a breather now and again, so fair enough. The range of fabulous costumes and variety of entries makes one think of them being the tip of many icebergs, with months of labour supporting them – design committees. seamstresses, choreographers, band leaders, float teams. Plus, of course, all those hours of practice. More power to the lot of them and full credit to all those folks that you don’t see making a splash on the Saturday morning canvas.

Yod Phu Tok, Bueng Kan province

Don't look down!

The gantries round the Yod Phu Tok sandstone outcrop are a little rickety to say the least. Fixed at seven levels, you make your way round before ascending to the next level via more gravity defying wooden staircases. If you have issues with vertigo, this one will test you out. You can edge round, looking dead-ahead, while ducking occasionally to avoid the overhangs. That is your best bet. The views are great, if you don't mind looking sideways, of course. Beung Kan is in the far north-east of Thailand, so far north that it is actually geographically north of Vientiane in neighbouring Laos.

Wan lai festival, bang saen

Forget the bucket and spade

The ‘Day that Flows’ is a festival in Bang Saen which takes place during Songkran. The main feature is a sand sculpture competition of spectacular proportions. Forget the bucket and spade, these guys are pros with elaborate constructions that look like they were designed using CAD. Bang Saen is a Thai resort in Chonburi Province which is usually packed at weekends anyway. Dismiss thoughts of trying to park anywhere near the beach or your day definitely won’t flow.

hundred-year-old chinese market

Eats galore

The 100-year-old Chinese Market not far from Pattaya takes place every Saturday. There is some craft ware on sale, but it is mainly an opportunity to sample all the food options. How or why a Chinese community was established there 100 years ago one can only guess at, as it is not near anything. It has the quality of endurance though; these photos were taken just after reopening following the two-year covid lockdown. As you can see, a resilient and vibrant community is in action. What they do during the other six days of the week wasn’t obvious though. Normal jobs for most, I suspect.

Talat Noi, bangkok

Old Riverside Bangkok

Wandering around the hot and sweaty backstreets of Talat Noi, an old Chinese community on the river in Bangkok, you can see into the open-grilled shophouses as you shuffle by. Folks sitting nonchalantly in white vests (always white vests) tend ancient, oily machinery that clanks away. What are they making? Who knows! But you can bet generations of the same family have been doing it in the same shop since they first moved in. As you round the bend you spy a photo-opportunity of a rusty old Fiat wedged against the wall. You feel pleased with yourself until you get home and realise that everyone and his dog has shot that exact same photo. Talat Noi, is 'Little Market' and features a great deal of street art too.

candle festival, ubon ratchathani

Dance till you drop

The parade lasts for two hours plus, on both the Saturday and Sunday morning. I would imagine you set out from your village very early to assemble in the park at about 8 am. You likely had to hang around for an hour waiting for the truck or bus to pick you up at the end as well. At every traffic intersection your group had to stop while cars were waved through – still dancing on the spot. It was 35C and I was dripping just watching. Likely saturated by 9 am you’d be willing the water carriers and tissue bearers to make haste. Full marks to everyone involved in the spectacle and looking great until the end. Every reason to be proud up there in Ubon.

khao khitchakut, chanthaburi

The Buddha's Footprint

Khao Khitchakut is a holy mountain near Chanthaburi. Pilgrims make the trek to the top to see the Buddha’s footprint. It is a decent climb, taking about three hours there and back; the way is mostly laid out in steps, so you just need a bit of stamina to see you through. There are great views once up there, although I was rather non-plussed as to the actual location of the footprint itself. ‘Pity we missed it,’ I lamented when we got back, only to be told that I was sitting right next to it as I threw my coins and coloured beads into its gold frame on the ground like everyone else. I did wonder what that part was about!

khlong ong ang, bangkok

Kayak-roll?

Khlong Ong Ang in Bangkok is a rejuvenated canal-side area near Chinatown. On the towpaths either side there are lines of stalls selling craft-type wares and clothes, along with sit-down restaurants. Live bands, buskers and street art all contribute to the lively vibe, as does the evening lighting. The part that puzzles me is that you can rent a canoe to glide up and down, but the water looks black and toxic, certainly not the place to practise your kayak-roll. Each to their own, I suppose!

hin sam wan, bueng kan

Three Whale Rock

What used to be a sweaty hike for a few hours up and back, is now a straightforward dash in your own personal baht-bus. The new concrete road up through the trees means that any level of physical fitness will suffice. Once up there on Three Whale Rock, you do need to be steady on your feet if you don’t want to disappear into the void. Let’s face it, falling off the cliff is also now a cinch, especially while going back-a-bit, back-a-bit for your selfie. Or even the group lemming impression as you are all busy looking up and waving for the drone photo. Great trip but keep checking that windsock!

sukhothai historical park

Entry-level Cycling

The way you get around the park is by hiring a bicycle. There are hundreds of them stacked together right near the entrance. What might be a carefree couple of hours has to be balanced against an often aggressive sun, the word 'frazzled' springs to mind. Sometimes all you need is the light, so rounding the corner with the sun slightly behind me, I was able to pull hard on my rusty brakes and screech to a halt. This is the shot! Actually, it is one of several that I could have used.

ho chi minh house, nakhon phanom

Exactly as it was

Ho Chi Minh’s house during his 1928-29 exile year in Thailand is just outside Nakhon Phanom near the border with Laos. The house is maintained by the original Thai family who welcome visitors – often busloads of Vietnamese. The great-great-granddaughter (I think) was very happy to talk us through the history of the house, luckily having Thai translation to hand. She wasn’t impressed with my Vietnamese though, or was it hers that was the issue? Nobody knows for sure what Ho was up to that year, but I could imagine many dead-of-night meetings with runners crossing from Vietnam via Laos.

mAHA nakhon BUILDING, BANGKOK

Nice view

The Jenga-esque Maha Nakhon Building has a glass tray on the 78th Floor. At 314 metres it is the highest observation deck in Thailand. You can look 360 degrees all round or you can look straight down to pick out a train approaching Chong Nonsi BTS station. Before taking up the latter option make sure your knees are up to it, plenty of people are on the cusp of fainting just by looking over the parapet! The glass tray is advertised as a ‘premium attraction’ and priced accordingly!

mon bridge, sangkhla buri

Built to Last

The longest wooden bridge in Thailand is called the Mon Bridge, the Mon being the Burmese community that inhabits the Thai villages adjacent to the border. As you walk along you pass the usual attempts at selling handicrafts; not too pushy, and all done with a smile. Having declined a photo of, or with, this little gang, I proceed to follow as they made their way home. Having my camera was round my neck, I was perfectly placed to capture this impish moment. The universal 'V'!

khao kho, loei province

Insta-ready

Khao Kho is an upland area in Loei Province designated as a national park. The local climate makes it a perfect destination for escaping the heat and also for market gardening and horticulture. Entrepreneurs quickly realised that fields of flowers would be a perfect backdrop for those selfies on Instagram. Twenty-baht gains entrance to the fields and IG glory for weeks to come. Just count the crowds all day on a weekend – that’s a lot of green notes in the tin at the gate.